Tour de Martin

My Czech studio professor had us quite busy this past week...

We went to the Prague Castle for an outdoor tour in sub zero temperatures...

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And we went 45 minutes outside of Prague to an open air vernacular architecture museum...

And to top it off we just had pinup today... Our newest Professor Fernando, fresh from the States, was there... My group did amazing!

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Opera - tion: Czech Style

On Monday our fearless institute assistant, Anael, took a group of 25 students to the Czech National Opera. We saw the Bartered Bride.


My time earlier that day was spent in the studio, from where Lindsay and I ran home to the penzion to prepare for later that night. Everything was going according to plan until I realized that the only pair of heels that I had brought were suddenly too big and get serious stares from old women in the metro. Some how I made it back to the institute after what seemed like an eternity of painful walking on cobble and changed into my cowboy boots... That is correct, my little black dress with cowboy boots...


So the opera was 3 acts... very long acts, but I did enjoy the singing and the orchestra. I sat with my friend Ben for most of it... apparently he as seen several operas... this was only my first.


The story consisted of a Czech woman who was in love with a man but was destined to marry another... there was a marriage broker, carnies, and a man in a bear suit. Pretty normal for a Czech opera.

I must say that it was an enjoyable experience and the opera house was quite impressive. I do believe I will go to another opera.



for more video and pictures from this post czech out http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/20093_CzechNationalOperaTheBarteredBride?authkey=Gv1sRgCJXqv_r1tevLvgE#

Cesky Krumluv, Again... But with the Bob this time!

Once we made it to our hostel we found a note on the door...

"Lorna, we have gone to dinner. You can check in with Carolyn at blah blah blah.. Here is a map"

Great. I really needed to use the bathroom after 3+ hours of traveling by train. So with the map in hand, the Bob and I twist down these tiny little steps onto a dark residential looking street... Could not for the life of us find this place mentioned on the note. So there is this place called BarBar... I walk in and ask for help. The barkeep doesn't speak English but does speak German.. great so after awhile of really terrible German between the 2 of us I get the directions straight and he says "Ahoj!" Great he spoke Czech...(much easier for me than German).

So we find this Carolyn and she checks us in. We drop our bags and head straight out to the restaurant that I had reserved for us on our way into town. We go down these tight little corkscrew stairs into these catacombs. We are then served the beer that is brewed there and lots of meat! Bob loved it.

The next day we got up and went to redeem ourselves at Laibon, a vegetarian restaurant on the way out of town. The food was so good... I don't think Bob understands how much I miss a variety of well prepared vegetables that don't include potatoes!



After lunch we walked towards the castle. We walked the bridge over the mote and look down... what do we see?

A huge brown bear! No kidding.

The castle was once entirely protected by a mote that was filled with bear... I think I would prefer water and alligators but hey... when in Czech land.

We climbed the largest tower in at the castle and looked down upon the tiny little Cesky town...

I sort of felt like a princess till Bob was like telling me to check out how far he could spit...



After the tower we walked the rest of the castle grounds and all except the castle gardens... like anything worth while in the Cesky Republiky.. closed till April. The lengths I will go through to see a garden...


Right on schedule the clouds came together, blocked out the sun and out came the rain... Just like a normal day in Eastern Europe. We left the castle grounds and retreated back into the town and found a little cafe near an art gallery... where I picked up a print by Egon Schille (20th century Czech painter) love it!

Bob and I got some of the traditional horka cokolada which resembles hot pudding and is quite good.. but you need to order another drink just to wash it down.

The rain continued so Bobby and I headed back to the hostel to hang out. We read, played on the computer and talked with the Aussie couple that ran the joint. Later that night we went into town per their recommendation and ate at a little place called Two Marys (Dva Maryz).

We barley found the door and as soon as we walked in the smoke pour out of the little room. "Restaurant upstairs" So up we go. Into this little room with 4 tables. We were the only ones there. We ordered garlic soup and the bohemian for 2... loads of good food.

I then took Bob to all the local bars and we finally settled at the Travelers Hostel Bar which really doesn't have travelers... more like all the townies...Then headed back to the hostel.

Next morning was Czech out. We left our things and hit town for breakfast. We also went to a cucarie (sweetshop) for dessert. That afternoon we climbed to the ridge opposite of the castle which has an abandoned church at the top. Every 50 meters or so there would be a shrine assuring that you were heading in the right direction. This is the hill I went sledding from in January to give an inclination of how steep it was... also very slushy from the thaw.

So after seeing the view we headed down and said our goodbyes at the hostel. Went to the bus station to catch our bus and took the 3 hour trip back to the city...

for pictures of this trip check out http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/200903_CeskyKrumlovBob#

We pragably need the czech pleeze!

So the Bob is back in Prague... and this is all the Ceske he knows... Thank you, Check please... So I taught him a few phrases...

I had to head back to school with a vengeance a while the Bob got to flaunt about Prague checking out all the cool things I wanted to see with him. He did however accompany me to my my first class back on Monday.

My first class on Monday was drawing class. We were supposed to be doing figure drawing and the lady was "quite fat, quite old, but quite good model" according to my professor. It took me the entire trip to talk the Bob into going and to use the new sketch book I had gotten him...


Well we get to school Monday morning and our model was not there... she had other engagements. So off we went to Saint Nicholas Cathedral... Beautiful high baroque architecture. We sat there and sketched until our fingers froze. Then off to lunch at Bohemian Bagel with the group of grad kids. It is the closest thing to American food that you can get in Prague.


Tuesday...
Was my day off of class. We got up fairly early and with Lindsay ran to Vyshrad which is the old ruins and parts of a 9th century castle located in the southern part of Prague. It is a nice run because you can run there mostly by connecting parks. Bob really enjoyed the view from up there because you can see all of Prague from atop the ridge.. all the way to the next castle.

The rest of the day we spent doing laundry, eating and just plain old chilling out.. We hadn't realized how exhausted we were from 10+ days of traveling... We were happy just to hang around and read and catch up with each other.

Apparently the Bob needed less rest than I did and ended up going out that night with out me. He went to a neighborhood bar with all of the guys to play foosball.

Wednesday...
Was a big day for the Bob and myself. I spent the entire day working and going to class and Bobby spent the entire day hiking around the city. Early in the morning I took him with me to a sight visit out in Prosek. He got to see how the other half of Prague lives. You can check out an entire blog on Prosek earlier in my bloglife.

Thursday:
My second pinup! My group did really well...


Bob spent the morning at the pension. I made it back to him around lunch time and took him to my favorite neighborhood spot. We had lunch and then took our luggage to the bus station. We were hoping to hop on a bus to Cesky Krumlov but the one we had hoped for was full... So we opted for the train (slower version).

We got on the metro and went to the train station and I bought us 2 tickets for Cesky Krumlov. We went to the track easily enough and got an a train for Cesky Budoviche where we would make the connection.

Once on the moving train the conductor came to check our tickets. After looking at them he told me in Czech that we were on the wrong train... Wrong I said. We knew that we need to go to Cesky Budoviche and we would connect there... After arguing with me for several minutes he gave up and left us alone. We gathered that he had wanted us on a later train that would be more direct. We didn't really care. We made it to Cesky Budeviche and only had to wait 20 minutes for our connecting train to Cesky Krumlov.

Once in Cesky Krumlov, the Bob and I walked 2km into the city center at night with the whole town below us lit and so picturesque. We should have stopped to take pictures but we need to get to the hostel and check in...

but you should check these pictures out from the pin up and Bob's time in Prague...

Step on a Krak break your mothers back...

Preface:
This blog entry was written by the Bob who tried to channel Lorna and then wrote in her first person/point of view. So, carry on Bobby...

So we made it to Krakow, Poland around 730 on Friday morning. With all the troubles from the night before we still managed to get there at the correct time with no set backs. We found an atm and pulled out some local currency (quit learning the names, starts with a z). Of course, the bills it game me were too large to be accepted by the metro machine so we had to go back and pull out a small bill so we good buy the ticket (this happens in every city, pisses me off). We hopped the tram and found our hostel no problem. We found Lindsay, Derek, and Jordan (they arrived the day before) but they wanted to sleep so we went to find some breakfast.



We found a smoky little diner in the Jewish Quarter with a bunch of young, polish, hipsters hanging out (I know, Polish-hipster???).

Then we walked around old town for awhile and met up with the gang for lunch.




We got some drinks at a little Italian Cafe and then ate some crazy street food (some sort of french bread pizza thing with all sorts of toppings).


After a nap we got some dinner at the really good mexican restaurant with awesome apple mojitos (made with awesome local vodka). We later hit up some cool little hipster bars in the Jewish Quarter where the beers and vodka was a flowing (polish vodka is way cheap in Poland)

Although most of the Polskis were really nice, Jordan found the one pretentious prick in Krakow at the Alchemia bar.

The next morning the weather sucks and some of us were a tad hung over so we decided it was a good day to visit Auschwitz.

We arrived via mini-bus that was so crammed that people stood for the hour long drive in the aisle. We luckily thought to buy our tickets advanced and were able to have seats. We mostly slept for the journey and arrived to a mix of rain, sleet and snow at the camp.

We started our visit with a movie about the liberation of the camp. It was live footage of the people leaving and the ones that didn't make it and were left behind.

From there we entered the camp, passing under the famous Nazi words: Hard work earns freedom...



We walked around mainly in silence through the barracks were the prisoners lived. Each barrack was dedicated to a specific country or group that was invaded by Hitler and imprisoned at Auschwitz. Poland was the most impressive and depressing exhibit.

We also toured the crematorium, gas chambers, torture rooms, shooting wall and hanging sites...

Our ride back was quiet and reflective...

That night for dinner we were exhausted and ate at a little Polish restaurant. We all then went to bed and woke up way too early the next morning because we thought that Europe was on the same time change schedule as the states. Its not. But the Bob and I had a wonderful meal and met the rest of our group back at the train station to leave for Prague.

The trip was pretty uneventful, except when the novice train riders of the group tried to get off at the wrong station and we had to rush to window and yell for them to get back on... Oh and the super smelly Czech that we had to share our cabin with... But we made it home to Prague!

for more images check out: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/200903_KrakowPoland#

You are perfect for me... I have to have you.

We arrived in Budapest around 11 pm by train on Tuesday night. We weren't quite sure yet again whether we should get off the train or not... but the entire train emptied so we took that as a cue.

Once off the train we looked around to find the name of the station (there are 3 in Budapest and it didn't tell which one we would arrive at). We discovered that we were at the eastern station. Next was money and a metro pass. We walked around the station for awhile and strange men approached us saying .. Taxi?! Taxi!? No, Nine, Nei, Niem whatever they got the point. Finally I spotted a teller and the Bob took out 20,000 forinth.. the Bob's a high roller (around $50 high).

Then we were yet again approached. This time we were asked if we needed a hostel.. No. Then the Hungarian man said we would be perfect for what he had in mind... After seeing our faces he quickly added "double bed, 30 euro!" No. Then he turned to the Bob and said " you are perfect for me, I have to have you!" Then I said no, I have him and grabbed Bob's arm and pulled him away... The man shouted and laughed after us.. NO NO not like that...

(when traveling in a semi-conservative eastern European country, implying that someone is gay is a great way to get them to leave you alone!)

We left the station and got on the metro. After switching lines a couple times and getting some strange looks... We arrived at our Art Hostel.. 12 hours later than planned.. to a worried hostel attendant. We had to tell her the story.. I think she felt pretty bad for us.

Wednesday:
We woke up and went for a run first thing. Our plan was to run towards the river, over the bridge, onto Margaret Island, across the next bridge and back. Well, it was raining , we were tired and only ran bridge to bridge (maybe 2K). Pretty weak.

We came back to the hostel to shower and got dining recommendations. We didn't take them... We found a gyro place a couple blocks away and spent a total of 2050F on lunch ($8) for the two of us.

We then decided that we would find this park that we both had really wanted to see.. We get on the metro and arrive on the other side of the river.


We never found it but we did find the castle and palace... and was it a castle.


It was atop the hill overlooking the river and both sides of the city.


We walked around there all day.


We walked back over the river and enjoyed the enormous Chain bridge.


For dinner that night we decided to check out the college district. It was similar to hip, urban city center (think Glenwood South but cooler). We found a place to eat mainly because we needed to use the restroom so badly. We had a pretty awesome waiter who didn't really know what language we spoke and threw everything he knew at us... It was fun and the burger I had was awesome... included cucumbers and krout.

Budapest – Thursday:

Thursday morning we woke to rain… lots of it. Well let’s look into some museums or try again to find the monument park… wrong.

We didn’t run. We got out of the hostel around 11 and headed to the other side of the river. Once off the metro we looked everywhere for this so called tram… could not find it. We walked in the rain 7 km up hill both ways… we finally gave up when our path ended in construction and we had to jump the tram tracks that were under serious repair.

We then found ourselves at a Hungarian seafood restaurant… We ordered beer (Belgians...weird, they were on tap) and our meals. The Bob ordered awesome goose leg with pear and a balsamic reduction. I on the other had ordered the pike… the first piece good, the other... not so good.

After lunch we had given up hope of finding the park and headed back to the hostel. Once back we decided… aw heck lets try it again… we did but changed our minds again once it had started raining again. So, we took cover in a Catholic church carved out of the side of the mountain... we couldn’t go in because they were in mass but the entrance was impressive. We then decided it was time to head back so we could get dinner and grab our stuff to get to the train station on time.

With about 15 minutes to spare, we made it to the train station and found our train to Krakow… We asked the conductor, “This train to Krakow?” Egan, he replied… So we boarded. Whoa wait a minute let me see these passes.. Niem Niem Niem.. no reservation! What, whoa really because we asked the station’s international information desk and she said no reservation needed… Niem, go next car down!

So we did… and guess what? It was completely emptied… We were starting to get nervous… It also didn’t say Krakow on the sign… instead something else. The Bob gets off and checks the other cars… Nope, only the car that needed a reservation… We tried again and got the same results. So here we stay on the car going to Warsaw that is connected to the car that is going to Krakow… Did I mention that this is a night train and at every stop the cars get split up and go on their way in different directions… oh, also we had been to the station earlier that day so we wouldn’t have another repeat of Bratislava… Wrong, worse…

So the train started moving… the only comforting thought that we had was that we were between the engine and two cars ahead of the sleeper (reserved) car that was going to Krakow… We will make this work… The conductor finally came by once we were moving to check our tickets… Krakow? I asked… Niem! And he then tells us we must move back 2 cars (this took 10-15 minutes). He follows back but at the second car is locked and he bangs on the door and finally another conductor comes to unlock it… He then explains that we need to be elsewhere… This happen for about 6 more cars with other conductors till one conductor decides that we need to pay 40 euro each to be put in a sleeper car that will go to Krakow… Um, no. We don’t have 80 euro! I had maybe $50 in Czech Koruny. So we really start to sweat… What do we do?

After a couple more cars and extremely broken directions given in Czech, Hungarian, and English… we make it to a standard car that is going for sure to Warsaw… Ok, well at least it is the right country… All the while moving from car to car, our bags are getting stuck and hung up on doors and what not… just to add to the mounting frustration.

So, eventually we make it into a 6 person standard car and we share it with another fellow. The conductor comes around again to check tickets and this is when the other passenger speaks to us in English… Yay! A Brit (probably the first time I have ever said that). So we explain our story to him and good enough for us he is a seasoned train traveler who knew the route well and was also fluent in Hungarian… Not long after we get acquainted a girl comes into our cabin and asks to join us… of course… she is Hungarian and speaks fluent English… we explain our deal to her too… So when the conductor comes by the next time she and the Brit find out what we should do… We learn that at 2:20 we will arrive in Boehem and that is where we should transfer trains to one that is going direct to Krakow… Hooray! Finally some concrete answers… Now we wait…Which wasn’t bad because the company was wonderful…

2:20 rolls around and we find ourselves in Boehem, Czech Republic, we jump off the train on to the one on the other side of the platform which says it leaves for Krakow at 3:08… awesome!

Needless to say we got very little sleep on our night train, but we have arrived in one piece to a beautiful, sunny Krakow and also to our hostel without any more discrepancies… yet, we still have to get back to Prague on Sunday… Pray for us!

For pictures of this tumultuous journey:
http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/200903_BudapestHungary#

You can checkout any time you like, But you can never leave!

Monday:

From Vienna, Austria the Bob and I take a train further east… to Bratislava, Slovakia. We make it for our train and find a seat in a quad section. For most of the ride we quietly talk back and forth as to which stop to get off on and from across the aisle a rather large and rather jolly Austrian women pipes up… “War is it dat you will be gowing?”… We explain that we are going to Bratislava and then the girl sitting across from us pipes in and tells us that we need to go to the Hlavna Station… She also commented that I did not look American… Why? Because I didn’t have an American accent and because I am too pale… oh and my hair isn’t blonde…she thought I must be from the UK… she didn’t comment on the Bob

So after a stop the Austrian woman gets off and bids us well, also letting us know that we are about to cross the border. Another stop comes and the Slovakian girl gets up to leave and tells us that we have one or two more stops… about 10-15 minutes… So the Bob and I wait. The next stop comes and the train doesn’t want to leave. So we wait a total of 10 minutes, all the while looking out the window frantically trying to find a sign which tells us the station’s name. Then I said, “Bob we have to find where we are... let’s get off.” As soon as we get off we see that we are indeed at the right station. Because of some previous reading and my astute worldly knowledge, we figure that the Euro is the currency at the station and not the Slovak Koruny (crown). We manage to buy tickets for the tram/bus system but have trouble finding the proper tram… After aimlessly walking around we spot tram 13… only the lights are off and he won’t let us board. So we walk to the end of the platform and see that he will pick us up in 2 minutes from that point… come on!

We eventually made it to our hostel and made friends with the front desk gals. Marched up to our room, dropped our stuff, and made our beds. Then next thing we needed was a beer! So we went to a little place called Slovak Pub (recommended by WikiTravel and the hostel). Bobby and I tried the local beer and some dumpling things (hulusky) in an alfredo sauce... it was pretty good. After we were stuffed we decided that the only thing left to do was to go back and fall quickly asleep.

Tuesday:

Just like any other morning… the alarm goes off at 8 am. We finally got out the door by 830 getting funny looks for the front desk guy (apparently shorts aren’t worn in Europe Bob, especially not in the winter). Off we go again on one of our runs. Our goal was to run through the historic center and then up to Bratislava Hrad (castle). Well we kind of ran to the river and had to make a quick judgment to get us back to the center. From there we weaved our way in and out of tiny little cobbled streets and through amazing little plazas… We kept catching glimpses of the castle but had no idea how to get around the huge highway that cut through the city… We finally cross a bridge and head up the hill to find the entrance and the castle covered in fog and scaffolding L

Ahh, whatever… it’s still a castle… in Europe! We jogged around the grounds and took a few foggy pictures… By then it was time to go because we needed to be back at the hostel by 10 so we could vacate the room by 11.

After we got ready, we stowed our bags, and checked train times for our next leg it was time for food… The Bob wanted Slovak pub again! I obliged… we had another beer, garlic soup in a bread bowl, and some perohi… I ordered all in broken Czech/Slovak…The Bob was uber impressed… I taught him how to ask for the check and we were out of there to see the town and the SUN!!! It was out in Bratislava! You have no idea how glorious the sun is…especially in eastern Europe.

We walked around the rest of the historical center and saw the city w/o fog. We also stopped by the American embassy… which was a little weird. They said they would let us in but only in 20 minutes… so we kept walking, maybe next time?

After a couple of hours of seeing the town we went back to the hostel to grab our goods and headed to the train station… OMG! There was a train leaving as soon as we got there, but Bob didn’t want that train because it wasn’t the train he saw online… the only other one leaving the station was one at 19:50… Oh shiza! We messed up! So we sit around the worst, smelliest, grossest station you could ever imagine… Then we saw an internet bar in the station and it was time yet again for a beer and wifi!

We found Bob’s so called train (at the other station) and another train leaving in 45 minutes at that same one. We downed our beers (Budweiser Budvar at about 60 degrees) and rush to the bus that took us over the bridge to the other station. We get off the bus at the right stop and follow the mob underground and up to the station entrance. We look around for a sign to tell us the times for our train but don’t see it anywhere… So I wait in a line that might give us some answers and the Bob checks the station… he finally gives up to join me in line… there must have been obvious frustration and confusion in our voices because the man behind us asks us if we need help… of course we did! He spoke with us awhile to figure out our deal and then talked to the lady at the window for us... he then offered to show us the bus to take back to the other station… that’s right. So, we followed him like puppies and had him explain which bus to take… well we didn’t take it… we got on another bus but it still got us back to the station…

So with a little under 2 hours to kill till our train, we found a restaurant that looked semi decent. We ordered a couple beers (I feel like this is becoming a pattern, t.g.f. the running) and dinner, which turned out to be the best meal in Slovakia! We head back to the station and see that our train is on platform 2… we walk to platform 2 and find no train nor information for our train… We head back to the board to check and then back to the entrance of platform 2 where we find a group of people looking just as confused… I ask Budapest?? The lady says no… do you speak German? (in German) I say nine… then this long, pony tailed Hungarian hippy pipes up in English stated that he is having the same problem…

Then God speaks over the loud speaker (in English) telling the group that our train is on the way… platform 2, track 4.

We are now safely on the train from where I write this blog…Moral of the story? See Bratislava, but come by plane!

the internet connection here is slow to post pics in the blog so check out pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/20090303_BratislavaSlovakia#

Vienna, Vien, Wien.... Whatever it was fun!

Sunday:
After our jog, The Bob and I roll around the city and get our bearings of the metro. We decided that Sunday would be a good day to check a museum... so we head to the Mumok (modern art). 9 stories of modern art, expression, architecture, and performance pieces. We decided to start at the bottom and that turned out to be the performance art floor... Movies filled with every possible portrayal human life reenacted through interperative dance, acting, song, fowl, movement, fish, and ect... yes I said fish and fowl... it was a popular thing to rub one's self with in the 60's.. i.d.k.... ask your parents?


The rest of the exhibits were pretty standard and my favorite was by a woman named Maria Lassnig. She study the human form and had an interesting way of portraying it through form and colour.


Monday (check out):
The Bob and I get up again for another run and decide to head towards the city center maybe 5K??? From there we walked around and took the metro back to our hostel. We showered, packed up, locked up our bags in lockers, and then headed out only to find my friends checking in!

So we persuade them to come with us to Karls Platz where Karlskirche Cathedral stands.. probably the most impressive cathedral that I have ever been in... and that is saying something.
This cathedral had scaffolding that took you 15 stories up into the belfry... it was amazing. You were so close to the paintings on the dome that you could actually touch them... we were so high above the church floor that some of the peeps in our group actually got vertigo... not me though... I love the heights!


Following the Cathedral it was time for some food... The first restaurant we found was call the Delicious Monster... where I order a monster chicken burger which was indeed delicious! We also had a few beverages and cake in honor of my friend's 21st birthday... 21 in Vienna? Not too shabby!

Following lunch we parted our seperate ways and The Bob and I headed northeast across the Donau River to New Donau City... high rise buildings on the river constructed of glass, metal and concrete... and also some of the creepiest statues that I have ever seen... check out the link for images...


After our trip to New Donau, we head back to the hostel to collect our things, hopped on the tram to the Sudbanhof Station, and got on our train to.... wait for it...



BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA!!!!

for more images from this blog check out http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/200903_ViennaAustria#

A Royal Jog

The alarm set for 8 am.. the Bob and I roll out of bed head out the door on our run. We hit up the metro and take it like champs to Schronbrunn Palace...
435 acres of French Renaissance garden design.. breath taking vistas.. Large stucco palace and court.


We ran probably ran about 2/3 of the sight which was full of manicured hedges and pools with Greek mythological creatures amongst fountains (unfortunately frozen)...

Our fave part of the whole jog were the many Austrian trekkers... (equipped with trekking poles) think Brad Pitt in 7 Year in Tibet... AHHH the Himalayas!!!

for more pictures check out http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.lorna/200903_ViennaAustria#